Department of Dispelling Stupid Ass Amplifier Myths

[heeman]

How about this one? It's quite a bit more expensive, but it has 3 outlets controlled by 12v trigger. I was hoping to not have to spend this much.

http://www.amazon.com/Panamax-M10-H...sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328297099&sr=8-1-spell

Andy,

What is the Nameplate current rating on your Amplifier(s) that you are trying to switch on?

Keith

It's a Sony TA-N9000ES: AC 120v 60 Hz 4.5A

Then even the first one should be fine as long as the other components pluged in are not rated more than 6 A.

I looked at the Smart Home USA Website to see if they had Loading Spec's for each of the grouped outlets and the did not, which kind of surprised me.

 

[Snake Doctor]

^^
If the AT 1500 owners manual is loose leaf (not a booklet), we should scan it to .pdf and post a copy online, since there are a multitude of people inquiring about a copy of that owners guide.

Rope

Where would you like me to post it?

 

[Snake Doctor]

Snake,
I too own a 1505. I tinkered with the thought of up grading for the same reasons you did. I didn't come up with that solution and eventually bought a new ATI 2007. Cost me a boatload and end result is I don't really notice any difference. :angry-banghead: Maybe a touch louder at really high volumes actually.

At least it turns on and off from my Harmony remote now.

I like the ATI 1505 that I wont sell mine. Keeping it for a second set up the day I ever get a bigger house.

I received the trigger cord yesterday it is a 25 pin on one end and a mini connector on the other. All I had to do was make sure the settings on the pre/pro were changed to trigger the amp and set the delay. It works like a champ.

John at ATI was great and followed up with everything; he sent me a copy of the ATI 1505 manual as well.

Andrew at Blue Jeans was very helpful too, but once I told him I wanted to go forward the communication between us slowed down and almost dried up. I didn't hear from him for about 2 working days; when I did he apologized saying he was pulled into something else and got behind. All is forgiven I got what I needed, Andrew worked with me and his team customized what I was asking for. If anyone would like to do the same thing Blue Jeans should have all of the information if not I will be happy to provide it.

Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions. :text-thankyoublue:

 

[Randy]

How much was the cable with shipping?

 

[Snake Doctor]

How much was the cable with shipping?

They charged $35 to make the cable and $5.15 for shipping - Total $40.15

The cable was only 4 feet but since they had to "special make it" the cost was a little more.

 

[Randy]

Awesome and thank you.

 

[Snake Doctor]

This is way over my head so may I ask a simple question?

I have an older ATI amp, are there any advantages for me if I have purchase a new or newer amp? I read all of the advertising propaganda and believe that I am good where I am. But, still I question if I should move to newer.

My philosophy has always been to save until I can afford a piece of equipment, buy the best new or used (mostly used or greatly reduced) and keep it for years.

So will purchasing a newer amp improve my system? If so how?

Do I need to start saving again?

Thanks

 

[Flint]

I don't see any ready reason it will get any better to have a new amp. There are some parts in your old mp which will age and someday hinder performance, but that will take decades. New amps are rarely better, especially since inflation makes similar quality cost significantly more than whatever you paid for the ATI.

The only reason I could recommend for changing your perfectly working amp would be if it no longer fit your needs, like if you get new speakers that need much more or much less power (yes, there are instances where a smaller amp is better).

The other reason to replace it is if it fails and repairing it costs more than getting a one.

You could also just get the bug and want a much better amp, but it is very unlikely a "much better" amp will sound any better.

 

[Zing]

...like if you get new speakers that need much more or much less power (yes, there are instances where a smaller amp is better).

Aside from the obvious - like switching to ridiculously efficient speakers such as Klipsch - what other circumstances might dictate a smaller, less powerful amp?

 

[Flint]

...like if you get new speakers that need much more or much less power (yes, there are instances where a smaller amp is better).

Aside from the obvious - like switching to ridiculously efficient speakers such as Klipsch - what other circumstances might dictate a smaller, less powerful amp?

High efficiency speakers are the main reason I can think of.

Basically, most amps have just about the same S/N ratio which is typically measured at the rated power. So, if a 500W amp has the same S/N ratio as a 50W amp, the noisefloor at 1W for the 500W amp will 10dB louder than the noisefloor at 1W for the 50W amp. When you turn on your system and nothing is playing, you should never hear any noise, if you have efficient speakers and a huge-ass amp, you are very likely to hear plenty of noise.

Another reason to not want a very large amp is if you are using small speakers which simply cannot handle anywhere near the output of that amp. Say, for example, you have a small pair of speakers with a single 3" driver in them (like small computer speakers) which are rated to handle about 5W RMS. If you plug those into a 150W amp, the chances of blowing the small speakers iare greatly increased, even small turn-on pops can do it with a mis-match that huge. Whereas, if you plug them into a small 8W Class-D amp, the chances of blowing those small speakers are greatly reduced.

 

[Botch]

Snake, the whole idea of separates is that input/processing tech changes all the time, but amp tech does not, allowing you to just upgrade the part that keeps changing.
I used my Yamaha stereo amp for over 30 years, and would still be using it if it had three more channels. :bow-blue:

 

[Rope]

This is way over my head so may I ask a simple question?

I have an older ATI amp, are there any advantages for me if I have purchase a new or newer amp? I read all of the advertising propaganda and believe that I am good where I am. But, still I question if I should move to newer.

My philosophy has always been to save until I can afford a piece of equipment, buy the best new or used (mostly used or greatly reduced) and keep it for years.

So will purchasing a newer amp improve my system? If so how?

Do I need to start saving again?

Thanks

If you plan on purchasing low efficency 4-Ohm speakers and your current amplifier is not stable down to 2-Ohms. Then a new amplifier possessing those qualities would be in order.

Rope

 

[Bote]

I just read the first paragraph and i already have a headache. Too much info for a small brain like mine. Lol!
Great thread SH! If only i could understand most of them. He he he.

 

[CMonster]

@rammisframmis, Any take on this quote I found on another forum?

New amps have toroidal transformers which take 48hrs to warm up and that's why you should have them plugged in and switched on all the time.

 

[Zing]

^Interesting that you mentioned this. I have only ever heard that about the JC-1 monoblocks but that it was due to them having such a large portion of Class A amplification that they supposedly sound better if left on all time. Still, I just assumed it was BS. So I'm as anxious as you to see the response(s).

 

[heeman]

I used to have a supplier in the Houston Area that built Toroidal transformers for an amplifier company. This was back in the mid 1990's. So the comment "new" is wrong. My older Paradigm HCA amps all have torroidal transformers.

With my experience, the transformers should reach no load thermal equilibrium within a few hours. This is a general statement due to many variables due to winding resistance, core loss and excitation current of the specific designs.

Our resident expert will explain in more detail.

 

[jamhead]

Ha. I posted the same quote on another thread....found at the Dynaudio forum on AVS!